Day 4 - Rain, rain, go away...
Weather-wise today was miserable.
I left the hotel after 10. My plan was to go to the Musee Marmottan, which is clear across the city in the 16th arrondissement. Since it appeared that the bus that could take me directly from here to there wasn't running today (Sunday), I decided to take the Metro, which required changing trains and walking a fairly short distance to the museum. It was raining quite hard when I got above ground again, but I did have my umbrella. I stopped at a bakery/cafe for a "noisette," which is a shot of espresso with a drop or two of milk. No, I didn't not get a pastry. Then walked on to the museum in the downpour.
I really enjoy watching the kids. The walk to the museum took me through a park and there was a little boy who had a spoon and kept wanting to dig in the dirt with it, but Maman just wanted to get in out of the rain. Maman dragged the little guy while he kept trying to reach down to dig with his spoon.
The Marmottan is in a beautiful old mansion and contains both the collection of M. Marmottan and a large collection of donated art, mostly Impressionists, including the largest collection of Monets in the world, which was donated by Monet's son. There is also a large collection of work by Berthe Morisot, who was the most successful woman in the Impressionist movement. It is a lovely setting, but I was surprised that there was no place to check coats and umbrellas - a real nuisance on such a miserable day. I stuffed mine into the little shopping bag I carry with me, so at least I didn't have to carry a dripping coat over my arm.
When I left, I decided to see if I could find the bus stop (maybe I was wrong about the bus not running) to save myself from having to walk back to the Metro. It was really blowing a gale, causing my umbrella to blow inside-out. I just missed an available taxi when I got to the main street, so decided to wait for awhile to see if another would come along, but finally decided to go back to the museum and call one. G7 is a reputable taxi company with an English dispatcher, and the taxi came just a few minutes after I called.
It was an interesting ride once the driver and I agreed on where I wanted to go as apparently there are several streets with 'Cadet' in their name. We passed many apartment blocks of classic Paris architecture, and quite pricey I'm sure. Some even had Christmas trees out on balconies waiting to be brought in and decorated. Finally, we came up to the Arc de Triomphe and the driver entered the etoile where 12 avenues converge. I had been around it before in a bus, but this was the first time in a car. It was pretty exciting, especially when another taxi came up along side within inches of my door! The driver left the etoile on Avenue de Friedland which becomes Boulevard Haussmann and I could see some of the damage caused at yesterday's "manifestation." Mostly, smashed windows. Many windows were tempered or laminated glass, so were just shattered, but some weren't, leaving the shops wide open. Some windows were still boarded up. There was also a lot of graffiti and I saw at least two damaged ATMs. It was sad to see.
Except for the days when I have something specific booked, I don't plan an itinerary for specific days. Rather, I try to plan a day's activities according to the logistics of getting around, such as what I can get to on the same bus or Metro line(s). Then I just decide "in the moment" when I will go. Included in today's possible activities were a stop at Trocadero for lunch and views of the Eiffel Tower, and another stop at the Musee d'Art Moderne at the Palais de Tokyo. However, the weather was so miserable, I just went back to the hotel.
After a couple of hours at the hotel (I snacked for lunch), I took advantage of a lull in the rain to go out. I walked a few blocks south to the Grands Boulevards, stopping along the way for some Amorino gelato (my favorite ice cream in Paris). As in Seattle, ice cream knows no season in Paris. Everyone eats it all year around. Two of the best examples of covered passages are in this area, so I visited Passage Jouffroy and Passage des Panoramas. Being Sunday, most of the shops were closed, but I will go back another day.
A lot people wonder what to do in Paris on Sundays, but there is no need to worry. Yes, many shops, restaurants, and cafes are closed, but many are open (in some cases the ones open on Sunday will be closed on Monday). Up until a year or so ago, the City required many stores to be closed on Sundays, but the rule as been relaxed at least in central Paris, so the big department stores are now open. Every neighborhood has at least one boulangerie open on Sunday and many grocery stores are open until 1 or 2 in the afternoon. One need not worry about finding a place to eat or otherwise spend money. The Parisians are out in droves on Sunday. Lots of families. The sidewalks were crowded.
I did a picnic in the hotel for tonight's dinner. My Fitbit says I did more than 10,000 steps and 7 floors of steps.
The forecast for tomorrow and Tuesday is much more promising, so I have my fingers crossed.
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